… The countryside is now consumed with violence. The Rift Valley is a no-go zone for Kikuyus, who have responded by burning the Luo sections of Naivasha. Both sides have erected roadblocks on all the main east-west highways and ripped up the rail lines running from Mombassa to Uganda, Kenya’s inland neighbor. This has brought commercial shipping to a halt. Uganda is facing mounting prices and severe shortages as most of its trade passes through Kenya by rail or truck. The tourist trade, Kenya’s economic engine, has disappeared. Most major travel agencies have refused to make bookings until April and the Mombassa resort economy has collapsed. A collateral victim of the crash in the tourist trade has been Kenya’s flower and fresh produce industries, which until the election fiasco had been doing a booming trade to Europe. The cargo holds of the aircraft carrying tourists back to Europe had been filled with locally grown fresh flowers and produce, high quality items with a stiff premium attached during Europe’s winter months. With cancellation of most tourist flights, the airfreight business has crashed. In effect, all the main industries in Kenya have ground to a halt…
As we headed for the Serengeti, our Tanzanian driver, Abu, said, "In Tanzania, we do not have Tribalism like Kenya. We intermarry freely and no longer fight."
These comments, and others like them, didn’t mean too much on our trip. We were preoccupied with Lions and Zebras, not government. I doubt any of us knew we were visiting a place ready to explode. Our Kikuyu guides spoke of their government and tribal system frequently, but seemed at home with the Masai in the Game Parks of the Rift Valley. This talk of tribalism sounded more historical than contemporary. I was reminded of a trip to then Yugoslovia in the early seventies. We had no idea it was a place consisting of diverse groups waiting for Tito to die so they could get back to fighting. When the wars broke out there after his death, I had to look up the various factions on the Internet to even get the groups straight. While there, I thought they were all just Yugoslovians when I was there. In Kenya, I knew there were differences. It shows in dramatically different physical characteristics, but I had no real grasp of the gulf among them. The rebellion against the British in the 1950s was led by the Mau Mau, a mostly Kikuyu group. That rebellion was ultimately supressed, but probably hastened the Kenyan independence. Since then, the dominant Kikuyu Tribe has controlled the country. Until very recently, Kenya has had a form of government known by the impossible term, a "one Party Democracy." So, what has happened with the incumbant refusing to step down when beaten at the polls isn’t all that surprising.
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